Cycling Romania’s Carpathian mountains

A cycling tour of the remote mountains of Romania reveals a world of myth and tradition, bears and wolves – and the world’s most comfortable outdoor sleeping quarters.

Pushing through a damp, flower-decked meadow on the hilltop, we reach the edge of a narrow valley filled with giant bog rhubarb. Before he plunges down into it Nelu, the hunter, turns to me with a grin: “In this vegetation, the bears can just pop up – right in front of you!”